Air fares and stop overs in Europe

Understanding air fares is difficult wherever you go. Typically it is annoying to get the cheapest flights with multiple and long stop overs. Being on holidays and curious to see new islands, we took advantage of the airline pricing strategies. The cheapest flight from St Kitts & Nevis to the Dominican Republic was with two 20h stop overs in St Marteen and Curacao, perfectly timed to have a day each in "Europe".

Contrasts

Hotels in St Kitts & Nevis start in the 400-500 USD per day and easily reach four digits. People were a bit surprised when we picked up our backpacks at the airport and walked into town…

Today we went into the area where the locals live and decided to get a hair cut, which was a great experience. Fully run by people from the Dominican Republic, we got our hair (and facial hair) trimmed within minutes. I am pretty sure he started his career in sheep shearing…

Credit terms

Different countries have different credit terms… - that's how it works in Nevis

Airport or bus stop?

Traveling in this region widens your horizon in many ways. One new thing I learned is the definition of an airport. Here an island with a few thousand people can easily have an "airport" with two daily flights and cows grazing just outside the runway.

"Army" of Nevis

Only 12‘000 people live on the tiny volcano island of Nevis but apparently they are afraid of an invasion or the like…

St Kitts & Nevis

The Federation of Saint Christopher and Nevis is the smallest sovereign state of the Americas (population & area). Two tiny little islands were governed as different states for long time and tensions remain today with smaller Nevis feeling neglected. In 1983 they gained independence from the British and today it is all about tourism.
51’000 people
GDP / capita (nom / PPP) 14’000 / 21’000 USD

Antigua and Barbuda

The Spanish did not colonize Antigua as the Caribs were aggressive and there was not fresh water on the island. The English took over to run sugar plantations. In 1981 the country became independent but the Elizabeth II remains the Queen of Antigua and Barbuda. The twin islands rely on tourism as main source of income - it is not all that difficult to understand why tourists come here...
91’000 people
GDP/capita (nom/PPP) 13’400 / 18’000 USD

 

Caribbean 101

Different names are often used for the islands, which can be confusing
- Greater and lesser Antilles
Greater Antilles – the big 4, Cuba, Jamaica, Hispaniola and Puerto Rico
Lesser Antilles – the others. The lesser Antilles are split up into the Leeward  Islands (east of Puerto Rico down to Dominica) and the Windward Islands (from Dominica down to the north of Trinidad and Tobago)
- West Indies, countries in the Caribbean basin. Sometimes Guyana, Suriname and French Guyana are also included in the West Indies. They are split into the English, French and Dutch West Indies. The West Indies cricket team consists of players from 15 countries (islands), which won the Cricket ICC World Cup twice.

Rum

While most islands have their local beer, rum is the real thing here. It comes in many different shapes and forms, with or without spices, with or without juice, in better or very poor quality…

Dominica

Some people claim the island was named after them while others say Columbus named the island after the day he discovered it, Sunday. More certain is the fact that Dominica is totally different to the other islands here, both in history as well as today’s situation. Very hilly with few beaches and even less tourists, it is a contrast to the others. Instead of swimming, hiking is the thing to do here and the highlights are rivers, 365 of them apparently.
72’000 people

GDP/capita (nom / PPP) 7’000 / 14’000 US

 

Barbados

Home of Rihanna is pretty different to the other islands. While most islands are or of volcanic origin and therefore hilly, Barbados is of coral origin (about 90m corals) and therefore flat. In addition is it the most developed island and has a busy airport (4 flights from London within hours plus good US connections). Both the Spanish and the Portuguese were here but it eventually became a British colony until independence in 1966. Barbados ranks ahead of the US in the Transparency International's Corruption Perception Index of 2013.
277’000 people

GDP/capita (nom/PPP) 16’151 / 16’015 USD

 

Tour around Saint Lucia

Saint Lucia is green and hilly as Saint Vincent but the visitors are completely different. While Saint Vincent receives a few cruise ships every month, bringing in large number of experienced people, St Lucia has direct flights from London and the US. Accordingly the crowds are younger. As all tourists are around one bay in the north, it is easy to get away and explore the island with the two famous pitons (steep mountains as well as a good beer named after them). In roughly 4 hours you can drive around the entire island.

Saint Lucia

Saint Lucia

One of the Windward Islands, Saint Lucia (named after Saint Lucy of Syracuse) had a turbulent colonial time. England and France each ruled seven times (!) before the British finally made the race until independence in 1979. Many places still have French names, which sound pretty good in English.
Banana was a major part of the economy in the past but recently tourism helped compensating the shrinking banana trade.
173’000 people
GDP/capita (nom/PPP) 7’700 / 12’900 USD

Bequia, SVG

One of the Grenadines with a wild east and a protected west coast. A paradise for sailing and relaxing. Tiny but beautiful!

Bequia, SVG

Saint Vincent and the Grenadines (SVG)

French and British colonial history, the British deported a large amount of locals to Roatan (Honduras). La Soufriere volcano eruption killed over 2000 people in 1902 and hurricanes destroyed banana and coconut plants several times. Independence in 1979. In a 2009 referendum the country decided against replacing Queen Elizabeth II as head of state. Bananas are the main driver of the economy today but the recent Pirates of the Caribbean movie shooting here gave more international attention, which could result in more tourists coming in future.
103’000 people
GDP/capita (nom/PPP) 6’300 / 11’700 USD

 

St. George and Grand Anse Beach, Grenada

Grenada is hard to beat! Grand Anse  Beach is one of the best beaches globally and St. George probably the prettiest capital in the Caribbean. Combined with wonderful temperatures, few tourists, excellent roti and mauby juice (no idea how the idea came up to make a juice of tree-bark. It tastes exactly as you imagine - at least you know why this drink didn’t make it to Europe… )

Grenada

LIAT

The major airline in the region is called LIAT. Locals say it stands for Leaves Island Any Time, warning us that they may leave earlier or later without notice. Indeed they were right. We booked a LIAT flight for 10.35am. At the airport we could not find our flight but our flight number at 09.45am. We first thought we missed our flight but then learned it was delayed to 11.05am. The best was that THE other passenger (we were only 3 to board) had the same ticket as we had but with 09.45am on it. So three passengers, two booked at 10.35, one at 09.45 but all on the same flight number and take off at 11.05.

On the upside they have a very handy seat arrangement – ideal for card games.

 

Chinese & cricket in Grenada

You might not be surprised that the Chinese are active in Grenada but did you know that Grenada hosted the cricket world cup in 2007?
Step by step. Grenada was hit by a serious hurricane in 2004. China supported the country to rebuild the national stadium. To show gratitude, Grenada planned to play the Chinese anthem during the cricket world cup opening ceremony. Unfortunately a mistake was made and the anthem of Taiwan was played, leaving some officials looking for a new job.

Grenada

Little Grenada, known as “spice island” due to the nutmeg production (provides 20% of the global supply) became independent in 1974. In 1983 a coup brought Grenada to attention of the cold war including an US invasion.
110’000 people in Grenada (+ roughly 100’000 in other Caribbean countries + roughly 100’000 in first world countries), mainly black African
GDP/capita (nom/PPP) 7’300 / 13’900 USD

Tobago

The smaller of the two islands can be reached by ferry or plane. For an incredible 24 USD (!) you can purchase a plane ticket on one of the very efficiently run flights. Tobago is much more relaxed with wonderful beaches and excellent food – bake & shark (fried bread with shark meat) as well as crab and dumpling (crab legs and kind of pancakes, no idea where the word dumpling comes from)

Tobago

Trinidad

Arriving in Port of Spain from Guyana feels like getting back to civilization. Trinidad and Tobago sounds like a little tropical island but is a very industrial and developed island. Besides the petrochemicals you have Nestle, Coca-Cola etc there with production facilities.
Port of Spain is a nice little town preparing for carnival in February, which is THE big thing here. Bands are practicing everywhere for the big celebration.
In the south of the country there is pitch lake, a lake of natural asphalt which is mined for industrial use. A very special sight, especially walking on it.

Trinidad

Trinidad & Tobago

The Spanish, British, French, Dutch – all were here. Independent since 1962, T&T is the third richest countries of the Americas behind US & CA today. It is the only Caribbean country with a primarily industrial economy, strongly relying on petroleum.
1’200’000 people on the two islands of Trinidad and Tobago
GDP/capita (nom/PPP)  21’933 / 31’264 USD

Kaiteur falls, Guyana

Deep inland of Guyana are the majestic Kaiteur falls. Seeing this impressive natural spectacle in the middle of the jungle is amazing but getting there is at least have the adventure!
At check in not the luggage but the passenger is weighted. Once in the plane it becomes obvious that it is not the maiden flight… Taxiing the airport shows you other planes, which must have had a hard landing.
Once airborne you fly over dense forest areas, only interrupted by the gold mines here and there until you reach a little deforested piece of land next to the waterfall where you touch down.

Kaiteur falls, Guyana

Georgetown, Guyana

Frankly speaking it is a bit difficult to describe Georgetown. There is kind of negative air in town. If you ask around for where to eat or where to go you typically don't get answers but warnings where all not to go in town. Here and there never, this part only during day time etc. This leaves a bit mixed feelings. In addition there are hardly and shops or restaurants, making it difficult to cater on anything else then the omnipresent fried chicken fast food.
Having said that, the city has plenty of beautiful old wooden buildings, many water channels, lovely horse carts on the road and last but not least, pepper pot - the traditional local meal consisting of beef in a sweet gravy with cinnamon (and yes, there is a restaurant serving it, it is called German's...)

Georgetown, Guyana

Guyana

Former Dutch & British colony, independent since 1966 – English speaking & left side driving

730’000 people (+500’000 leaving outside the country!), 44% Indian, 30% Black African

GDP/capita (nom/PPP)  3’500 / 7’900 USD

Growth / Inflation / Unempl. 3.6% / 12.3% / 11%

 

Paramaribo to Georgetown

Crossing over from Para to Georgetown is a simple combination of minibus, ferry and minibus again - about 8 hours in total. The only slightly distracting fact is that you have to leave Para at 4am to catch the ferry at 10am. On the upside, you reach Georgetown by lunch time.
During the 8 hours trip we had some time trying to understand the timing for this trip but nobody could explain why the ferry is only doing one of the 30minutes ride a day and why this one ride has to be at 10am.
Anyways, we made it despite insane driving skills of the driver on Guyana side.

Paramaribo to Georgetown

Knini Paati - Upper Suriname

Only accessible by boat on Suriname river are wonderful lodges in the middle of nature and far away from civilization. It feels a bit special to swim in the river only to see a Caiman a few houndred meters away later the same day...

Knini Paati, Suriname

Paramaribo, Suriname

Dozens of casinos, a lot of jewelry shops selling the locally mined gold, party buses rolling thru town, dolphins in the river, wonderful old buildings, one liter Parbo beer bottles and a drive thru McDonalds, which causes the biggest traffic jam in town.

Paramaribo, Suriname

Feels like The Netherlands

Today we "fietsed" to Nieuw Amsterdam

 

Chinese in Suriname

There is a very visible Chinese population in Suriname, which runs basically all supermarkets. They are typically pretty surprised to meet a Swiss who lives in China in Suriname...
A bit of mandarin can put amazing slimes on their faces.

Suriname

Former British & Dutch colony, independent since 1975 – Dutch speaking but left side driving

560’000 people, very mixed population

GDP/capita (nom/PPP) 8'500 / 12’400 USD, economy heavily relying on bauxite

Growth / Inflation 3.5% / 6.4

Famous people: Patrick Kluivert, Clarence Seedorf, Edgar Davids

 

Korou, French Guiana

After the independence of Algeria, France had to look for a new location to launch their rockets. Korou was chosen and a major space station was built. First by the French, later together with European partner countries. Today three programs are based there. Vega (small size), Soyuz (mid size) and Ariane 5 (large size).
Due to the proximity to the equator, the Soyuz rocket can carry twice the payload out of Korou compared to its base in Kazakhstan.

Korou, French Guiana

Jungle meat

There is plenty of legally hunted local meat available here. This is what was on offer in our restaurant today.

Cacao & Tresor, French Guiana

A road thru dense jungle leads to Cacao, where a community from Laos is living. It is a unique feeling to be in South America, knowing that you are in the EU but you are surrounded by Asian people serving Asian food.
We were there on January first and were invited to a glass of champagne in the church...

Cacao & Tresor, French Guiana

Cayenne, French Guiana

A little, relaxed town with its share of Carrefours, excellent food from food trucks and plenty of fresh fruits & vegetables.

Cayenne, French Guiana